Michelle May

How many times have you been to Iran?

Three times:  I spent summer 2007 traveling by public bus from Tehran to Shiraz, Yazd and Isfahan.  Second time (summer 2008) I attempted a solo bicycle trip across the country which only brought me from Tehran to Tabriz and back.  I also visited Kurdistan, Baluchestan, and Turkomen regions by bus that summer.   My most recent visit was in June 2009, which was unfortunately cut short due to being abducted for a few hours by the Basij.  I was advised by the Iranian authorities to leave the country after that.

Why Iran?

Iran was one of those countries on my wish list for some time, yet it was never the “right time” to go.  Then I realized that it may never be the right time and perhaps I should just go see for myself what is really going on.  In the summer of 2007 I went there alone, not knowing a soul, on my Irish passport.  In my experiences there I was treated with great kindness and respect by a sophisticated civilized society- a very different Iran from what I had seen in the news.  Many back in America do not realize that hospitality is an essential part of Persian culture and also a major part of Islam.   The friendships I made there are deep and will last a lifetime, inSh’Allah.  

Is it safe?

Iran feels much safer than many US cities to me, including the city I currently live, San Francisco.  When in Iran I am more than looked out for and cared for.  From what I have experienced, people there go out of their way to help and offer assitance even when there is a significant language barrier.  I saw no signs of violence or danger (barring Baluchestan and the high stress time following the 2009 elections). 

Don’t you have to wear the Burqa?

As far as clothing, hardly anyone wears a full-on burqa (covers even the face), except the Saudi tourists.  Many women in Iran wear a chador which is like wearing a black sheet over your clothes, cape style, which to me is very tricky to operate.  Much simpler/easier is a mantou which is like wearing a jacket that goes to mid-thigh, and a head scarf, covering most of your hair.   There is flexibility in this, and so It can be very fashionable…

Are you traveling with a group or part of a tour?

No.  I love solo unplanned travel, and Iran is no exception.  As an Irish citizen I am able to travel independently.  Some other nationalities are not so lucky, such as Americans- they must have official escorts or be a part of a tour.

You are Irish?… but you sound American and you live in America?  What am I missing here?

Ok you figured me out- I am a dual citizen of both Ireland & the US.  Traveling on my Irish passport is much easier though : ) 

Do you speak Farsi?

No. However, I do have a few basic phrases that I use as icebreakers.  I also understand more than i can speak.  My Farsi is better than my Thai, but worst than my German (that’s not saying much).

Are you a journalist?

No, I have a job which affords a flexible schedule, and resources for travel.  

What do your parents think?

They know this is a part of who I am and what I love to do. Like most parents they just want me to be happy.

Are you independently wealthy?

No,  I fund myself.  I work hard to save & don’t spend money on too many frivolous things.   

What inspires you?

The local people I meet traveling and their generosity- even when they have so little.  Am always moved by the smiles and laughter of locals, even many times when they are up against huge odds of injustice and adversity.