Michelle May

Two days ago I awoke to Tabassom asking me “Did you hear the bombing!?” I was still half-asleep. She asked again, “The bombing- did you hear it at 5:00?” Well, no in fact I did not hear the bombing.  In my sleepy stupor I worried for an instant that Israel made good on their recent threat to attack iran. Tabassom brought me to the kitchen which is normally a sleek classy white space- the sort of space used in Arab TV commercials selling stuff like Knorr. However, this particular morning purple was splattered all over the place, tie-dying the white fabric of the kitchen chairs; the marble floor feeling like it had been covered in glue. By “bombing” Tabassom cutely meant “explosion.” Apparently, some seltzer water was mixed with berries and berry juice in a plastic bottle, which after sealed several hours in this heat, it became a home-made berry-bomb in our kitchen. I love little words like “bombing” this which have nuanced meaning. I know when I speak in say Spanish I say things like this all the time (and much much worst) constantly confusing and alarming my Spanish speaking friends and passers-by.  Another example of this was last nite we were watching Eurocup while a local brand of rice commercial kept coming on which is named after a very common man’s name here.  Last year i made a *slight* indiscretion here with a man by that very name and now this rice commercial acts as reminder to all my friends that they can make fun of me, making kissy noises whenever they see me while singing this rice company’s jingle.  So I go and give it right back to them, making up men they may have had romance with.  I scrammbled so far as to say that one woman had romance with a doctor while she was in the hospital- the stuff western daytime soaps are made of, not real-life Tehranis.  My friend’s friend responded with laughter exclaiming “What do you think she is? a bitch?!” This cracked me up.  I knew what she meant, but it is so adorable when language is used this way.  I love it. 

Tabassom finished her exams yesterday. That meant last nite we went out on the town- this time the town being the nearby Alborz Mountains. It reminded me so much of LA in so many ways. The view of twinkling Tehran at nite was identical to the view of LA, the traffic barely inching by. In all that LA-ness, we went to an outdoor cafe, which reminded me of a German biergarten gone Middle-Eastern. It was set in a garden with circular areas covered in Persian carpets where Northern Tehran’s glamorites come to smoke hookah, and casually lounge co-ed decked in their finest fake Gucci and D&G brands. Most were on dates, the ladies with very elaborate hair doos and make-up jobs. Many mantous were transparent, if not skin-tight; headscarves delicately perched back on the head, scarf dragging below their bosoms, so that their neck, etc- could be seen. I remember when I first came to Tehran last year- because of the circles I run in here, I thought this sort of fashion was the norm. I in fact felt quite conservative in dress, in comparison. Not until I ventured out to different parts of Iran did I realize that N. Tehran is an anomaly, and most certainly not the norm. Dressing like that in another town, like Shiraz or Esfahan will certainly assure that the fashion- police (ladies in chadors) will come to scold and adjust you, just as it happened to me in Esfahan for wearing bright colors, and beaming red lipstick.  Last nite was fun, we smoked hookah, talked, and mostly I gawked at the unique fashion all around me, especially at the boys with the ridiculously skin tight t-shirts and hair that swallowed at least an entire bottle of hair gel to maintain such 80-s like styles.

Any free chance I get these days I gawk and stare at the five maps of Iran I have acquired since arriving. Finding a comprehensive map was a challenge so I have to use five to assess altitude, distances, accommodations, road conditions, and overall bike-ability. Originally, I wanted to ride from Astara on the border of Azerbaijan to the near the border of Afghanistan in Tayab. I planned to go into Afghanistan after that (by bus) to visit the ancient city of Herat. However, after much talk with people here I think going to Afghanistan is now out of the question : ( I went to my country’s embassy to register that I am in fact here today. I told the secretary about my plans, and she then inquired with the Ambassador about my plans. He then invited me to his office to chat about why I am here, how friendly Iranians are, and the various areas experiencing some sort of strife right now. Basically, Iran is safe- but areas around it are not, and that, of course, sometimes spills into border areas. For example, there is sometimes gunfire in the Kurdish areas near Iraq, and tourists (even cyclists) have been kidnapped near the borders of Pakistan. From what I have read, these are usually amature kidnappers, but it seems that in places like Afghanistan, the amature people will then “sell” you to someone like the Taleban to make some money. The Taleban are rich from the poppy/drug business, and we already know what they want with the kidnapped; it’s not money.  These sobering details, combined with my recent bad dreams about going to Afghanistan made me decide against it- that is unless I get some posh secure invite to Kabul or the likes where I can fly in & fly out; as most kidnappings happen on the physical road. Several people have told me that they have not met any women who have cycled alone in Iran and that there may be some areas where it is forbidden to be a woman on a bike, more-less a lone woman on a bike. point taken- if that is the case I will take the bus to the next town and resume biking from there.   I still plan to leave here on Tuesday (Wednesday?) but am trying to meet up with some other cyclists- find more info & solidify my route. I already have some excellent Tehrani biker connections : ) but there is also French cyclist here rite now, as well as a Japanese fellow who has been biking for peace for 10 years now! He has covered over 120,000 miles- Incredible!!! Check him out: www.daisukebike.be  I will meet up with all of them tonite at a lecture here in Tehran about “eco-tourism.”  Should be interesting!

Tags: Iran, Tehran.

Arrived to Tehan yesterday.  Staying with my dear friends I stayed with last summer, the sophisticated and glamorous Tabassom & Shirin… fantastic people!  Already they are taking such good care of me that they are no doubt spoiling me for what is to come- what am i going to do when i start to ride?  who is going to take care of me then?  j/k- i will.  I met up with a friend of a biking friend here, Bijan, who is hands down the most “bikey” person in Tehran (in my opinion).  He rides about 90K a day in this ferocious city’s traffic.  He voluntarily came over today to put my bike together & then he sent a mechanic to work on my derailer which got a bit eff-ed up in transit.  Again, the epitomy of Persian hospitatlity- this is all free.  I told him how much they charge back in the States for boxing bikes- and Bijan nearly fell over.  Tomorrow i am going to try to ride 40 miles around Tehran– traffic here is incredibly crazy & dangerous.  I have seen cars rding n sidewalks, for example.  So after about 20 miles of urban mish-mash, I am going to seek some refuge in a new park that is for use of women only- this means all us ladies can go there, and exercise headscarf-free, mantou-free; i can even wear just bike shorts!  Today Tabassom sewed one of her extra headscarfs onto my helmet, so i have no choice in the headscarf bit- i will still have it, which i think is good- i have to get used to dealing with the heat while biking.  The plan is to set sail from here on Tuesday once i get over my monthly visitor who arrived this morning ; ) I am on dial up rite now- eventually i will get to some broad band to send photos, sound, video… just wanted to check in & let you know I am here!  Oh, i have a new mobile # here if you want to call me:  +0098-936-119-7758 (12 hours ahead of CA, 9 ahead of NY, 6 ahead of the UK).

Tags: Iran, Tehran.

Walking in a souk today i saw a long line of ladies coming my way, decked out in Black Abayas along with a sprinkling of little girls dressed in extravagent gold dresses (photo).  Some older ladies were wearing these masks which are typical in the region; it seemed like this was several generations in a single line.  A few of the younger ladies stopped to look at me and giggle (photo).  The older ladies looked at me, rattling off a bunch of words, touching my hair and shaking my hands.  I spoke my few token lines in Arabic, asked them a few questions trying to figure out where they were going - i thought either a) a wedding, or b) a funeral.  Imagine me trying to describe these 2 events via hand signals & facial expressions.  They then covered my head, took my hands, and led me with them.   Turns out it was neither wedding nor funeral, but close: a bridal shower.  We entered a hall which was decorated with gold, red and emerald green.  Green pillows lined the circumferance of the room, with older ladies sitting on them, masks in full effect.  A few kids played.  The rest of us sat; I with my new 16 year old friends, as we listed to older ladies sing on a funky microphone… we clapped along a bit but it reminded me a bit of church when i was a 16 year old- i could tell my new teenage friends were less into the clapping and call and response than i was and the older ladies were, i immediately stopped, trying to fit in.  Eventually a group gathered & they collectively asked me questions about my age, marital and baby status, boyfriends, and broken hearts.  As expected, everyone wants me married with baby ASAP.  As we sat, ladies came by every 5 minutes, giving us coca-cola, milk, cookies, chocolate, money (!!), cleaning fluid tasting tea, good tasting tea, rose water placed direct from a pot into the hand to wipe all over the face, and then a bag of dirt wrapped in pink paper with a bow tied around it.  What was this for- was it like what we do with rice?  I knew it was not a wedding but maybe at showers here you throw things at the bride to be ahead of time?  I tried to figure out (with hand signs) was it in fact for throwing?  or eating?  They thought this was amusing.  It was simply for smelling.  Of course.  When the bride came out she was decked in a stunning, and relatively speaking, very revealing emerald green dress with tons of gold jewellry including a gorgeous goldchain veil that sat on top of her head & draped across her face.  It was breath-taking & she looked absoltuely beautiful.  No photos were taken since it was a religious ceremony, but i do have some sound on offer on MP3 below.  When leaving, they gave each of us a heavy knotted up plastic grocery bag as a sort of “shower gift” to take home.  Inside was a massive china bowl filled with fruit, small bags of potatoe chips/crisps, juice boxes, etc-.  How generous & sweet.  Best wishes to the bride in her new life!  Afterwards i went to pick up 2 salwar kameezs i had made at this excellent Indian tailor i found here (photo with tailor, again I am getting squashed- i swear i have not developed some wierd hunching condition).  It has been a great last day in Dubai : ) & : (  I willbe in Tehran by tomorrow AM  : )   

 

 wedding shower in dubai: Play Now | Play in Popup | Download

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Atta Hussain is a celebrated Tabla/Sitar player who was playing at my fave Indian joint in Dubai yesterday.  We spoke after wards- he is a very kind peaceful gentleman.  At the end of our conversation I had to comment on his sweet shirt which was full on Indian with a splash of bling (fake diamond buttons).  He kindly insisted on giving me his shirt.  Hey, that is really nice!  Almost as wonderful hearing him play (sound clip & video attached for your ears).  Thank you Atta!!!

 

 Atta Hussain Tabla/Sitar: Play Now | Play in Popup | Download

 

 Online Video: Play Now | Play in Popup | Download

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Skating in an ice rink on a 120 degree day was a welcome break from the oven-like desert heat.  That and, I forgot how much fun it is to skate… I used to skate all the time growing up in wintery western NY.. but have not put blade to ice in over 20 years.  It all came back to me no problem.  it was by far my favorite time had in Oman!  There was a “church summer camp” group of mainly Indian and African kids there too, who i recorded; have a listen…. such fun!Don’t mind me totally butchering their names & Kerala village names on accident- i am phonetically challenged!

 

 Standard Podcast: Play Now | Play in Popup | Download

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had a lovely time on friday (mosque day) wandering the alleys of what can only be called little India in Dubai.  Visited both Shiva & Krishna temples, paid my respects, said a few prayers, & remembered just how much i love India & the spirituality that is weaved into the lifestyle of that culture.  I am very fortunate to have gotten this version of India as an added bonus to my Iran trip!  Here is a sound bite of  wandering the alleys- speaking briefly witha a Nepalese fellow who did not understand what i was saying (&vice versa), etc-.  I wish i could have somehow hooked up a smell recorder too- from the vile to the heavenly- all scents of India were represented ; ) 

 

 walking in india: Play Now | Play in Popup | Download

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though still inDubai one would not know at times… 

Here is a bite of the Indian band playing at dinner tonite:

 

 souds of india in dubai: Play Now | Play in Popup | Download

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My experience of Dubai is very different from when i was here 4 years ago.   In a nutshell, I now see what all the fuss is about, whereas last time i really did not enjoy.  Dubai has all sorts of exotic touches- of India, of Africa, or Arabia, all in one place, but with all the creature comforts of home.  Strangely enough it reminds me of a hyper-diverse strip-mally Arizona with Arabic flavor.  I think it would be very liveable here but also it would be difficult not to get spoiled & wrapped up in all the luxuries that can be had.  It has potential neo-colonialist written all over it- that’s part’s not nice. 

Today I had to go and pick up my visa at the Iran embassy.  The process of getting the visa here was about 50x easier than it was in Germany last summer.  Everyone at the embassy appeared happy, helpful and uber efficient.  It seems that many Iranians can be over here in Dubai, and like me , still have many of the creature comforts of home, plus having all sorts of liberties that they don’t have at home such as dressing how they want in public, shopping like mad (there is more variety here) & even kicking backa few beers and going to nite clubs!  Now i understand more why friends back in Tehran talk at length about Dubai and try to make it here a few times a year.  Makes sense…

I was told that of the 4 million Dubai-ians (what are they called?) only 1million hail from the UAE.  From what i have seen i would say it is even less than that.  With all the different nationalities here it is a dream for me, and an ideal example of many different cultures coexisting very peacefully.  Today at the gold souk I spoke with Eritreans, Somalians, Afghanis, Iraqis, Pakistanis, Indians, Filipinos, and finally even met my 1st native Emirati (UAE-er).  All the while an occasional gaggle scantily clad tourists walked by without an eyelash being bat or much gawking.  It made a place like NYC seem homogenous in comparison.

I am still jet-lagging, but it sure is nice to stay at the fabulous hotel I am at and in a “family suite” which is much bigger than my apartment back home-  Am online here now & regret to say that i still cannot figure video out on this website, so i am having to default again to Blogger.  THat said, i am not even sure if blogger is blocked or not in Iran, so i will rely more on the podcast & photos– Still, this flip is so fun and handy that all day i cold not resist filming glimpses of assortment of Dubai-ians.  

I am off to Oman tomorrow and leaving the bike here in storage along with my gear. That means i only have one small bag to take.  it is about 42 Celcius- HOT and air quality is verrry bad- visability is a about arms length.. if is foggier (smoggier) than i have ever had seen in SF, LA, Tehran, or Mexico City for that matter.  My eyes sting.  I did see a biker-biker here and was wondering how he was coping and if he has a grey lung or two as a result. 

PS:  I can hear Obama speaking on a telly in the background- Obamarama is ***hot*** even here! ; )

Tags: Arizona, Dubai, India, Iran, Kerala.